Tiny East Dallas taqueria takes on gentrification

If you know anything about the East Dallas (also know as Oak Cliff) neighborhood, you know that these Dallas residents hold steadfast to their belief in these two values on any given day: strong family ties and good food. 

Street vendor Jose Gaytan has been a staple of this community for over 25 years, serving a signature recipe of elote- a spicy, savory traditional Mexican street corn. 

"I started coming to see him when I was a kid with my abuelo," Angel Lugo said.

Lugo, 35, is a dedicated customer of El Si Hay, the taqueria and street corn shop that is a hallmark of the Oak Cliff foodie community.

He brings his children to eat Gaytan's special elote recipe, just as his grandfather did for him. Though Lugo originally gre up in East Dallas, neither him nor his family live there anymore. They were pushed out by an early wave of gentrification in what is now the Bishop Arts district.

Within the past decade, East Dallas has faced a substantial wave of gentrification, a movement that has displaced its intrinsic hispanic community with trendier, more popular dining venues lining its historic streets. 

The advent of Dallas’ Bishop Arts neighborhood is a recent developmental project in Oak Cliff that addded a slew of commercial, residential and dining options for new residents since its start in 2018. Its construction neglected the already existent community of Black and Brown residents that have called the neighborhood home for decades. With neighborhood revitalization driving up rent prices, longtime Oak Cliff locals are pressured to move out or pay the lofty price of staying on their home turf. 

Yet, somehow, this recent wave of gentrification hasn't stopped the unrelenting flow of loyal customers from visiting Gaytan’s taqueria (taco shop), El Si Hay, and indulging in his flavorful, $5 elote and $2.75 street tacos. 

"I always get the chicken tacos," one customer who asked to remain anonymous stated. "I'm originally from Arkansas but I love Tex Mex, especially street tacos."

A customer waits outside of El Si Hay for street tacos in the midday Dallas sun. Photo by Ceara Johnson.

Listen to a customer testimonial about how fresh ingredients make Gaytan's elote stand apart from the rest:

Listen here!

One could say Gaytan represents the unabated soul of the residents of East Dallas, resistant to the tribulations that change may bring.

Oak Cliff is no stranger to the keen sting of the racist history of gerrymandering in Dallas neighborhoods. Though East Dallas began as a home for middle-class whites in the early 20th century, it is now home to a diverse, hard working community of residents of various ethnicities.

One of Gaytan's sons walks out back behind the taqueria for more ingredients. Photo by Ceara Johnson.

Gaytan’s unique recipe is just as unique as his regular customers: flavorful, rich with history, and fueled by family ties. 

To try this gentrification-resistant, mouth-watering elote or street tacos, head to 601 W Davis St, Dallas, TX 75208 and visit Gaytan at El Si Hay. You’ll be glad you did.